Kennedy Meadow South- This is a great early season, May trip with plenty of grass, lots of water, and moderate temperatures. By early summer it is hot, water is drying up, and rattlesnakes are active. Trailhead camping is approximately one mile north of Kennedy Meadows store. Campsites are unmaintained with no water or garbage pickup. Enter the PCT at mile 704 at 6020’ elevation. After 3 miles of easy gain you will cross a steel-girded wooden bridge, snack break. At another 1 1/2 miles you will cross Crag Creek and pass through a burn area, over a hill, and down on the left there is a good camp area with grass and Crag Creek. The next camp and water is on the South Fork of the Kern River, about 6 or 7 miles. We always stop at Crag Creek, both humans and llamas are out of shape. This is a dry desert environment with lots of brush, and it is subject to high winds. Always be extremely careful with campfires, we rarely start one. The next stop is the South Fork of the Kern River. Gaining an easy 1000’ in elevation you will start to see the transition to the Sierras and high alpine. Only 65 miles further north, about 3 days of hiking for the speedy PCT hikers, is Forester Pass and the southern end of the John Muir Trail, a majestic wonderland.
Upon reaching the South Fork of the Kern River is another steel-girded wooden bridge, also known as Swallow Bridge. Most years the Swallows arrive early and nest under the bridge. At intervals all the swallows leave the nests under the bridge and do loop de loops in the sky for a few minutes then return to their nests. Uphill from the bridge is a tiered campsite with rock benches and flat tent sites. The vanguard of the PCT hikers start coming through in late April, or early May. They are lean hiking machines. It is amazing how far they can go on Snickers bars and trail mix. My friend Karen Laws has fished downstream from Swallow Bridge with great success. She wades upstream where the willows choke the sides off about one to two miles upstream. To loop back to Kennedy Meadow, cross the bridge and turn east following an old cow track. From here on the trail is less defined and there are no sign posts. In some spots a multitude of deer trails intersect. The first two miles or so, you will cross the Kern River eleven times. The last crossing is the most difficult. It is hard to see where to cross. There is a deeper hole that your llamas may try and jump. On this section you must be patient, constantly orientating with your map, and sometimes sending a scout to find the way. Dutch John Flat is the next destination. There is good grass a few hundred yards west of camp. In between camp and the grass, there is a spring with a cistern. Some years the small spring next to camp is running. From Dutch John Flat to Kennedy Meadows is about eight miles. You must decide if you wish to hike a full day and drive home that afternoon or camp at the trailhead and drive home the next morning. Option 2 is to have a short days hike, camp in the wilderness one more night, and then drive home the next day. I always pick option two. The only decent place to camp is about is about three miles south of Dutch John flat. On the left will be a grove of big shady trees and a small spring crossing the trail. A small meadow is about 100 yards west of the trail, perfect for llamas. The spring is where your abs pipe will come in handy. The last day is an easy hike back down to 6000’ and Kennedy Meadow. Stop by the Kennedy Meadow store and have a burger or hot dog out on the deck. Mingle with the PCT hikers and listen to their stories. Who knows you may meet the next Dixie.
Tips and Resources
Maps: Pacific Crest Trail #3, Inyo National Forest
Rattlesnake shots--I recommend that llamas get Rattlesnake shots. Dogs are ok on this trip, but the dog needs to get a rattlesnake shot as well.
Remember to filter all water.
Always be very fire safe.
ABS Pipes- Many Hardware stores carry 18” x 1 ½” pre-cut black abs. PVC will work also. Use this to create a drop on slow moving water sources.
Horseshoe Meadow- This is a wonderful entrance for stock into the Sierra Nevada forest and Sequoia Park. If you wish to travel the JMT and the PCT with stock, this is the closest entrance to Whitney Portal. Stock is not allowed to enter or exit thru Whitney Portal. The total distance from Horseshoe Meadow to Tuolumne Meadow is very close to the same distance from Whitney Portal to Happy Isle. Llamas are not allowed to enter or exit thru Happy Isle. Sequoia, Kings Canyon, and Yosemite National Park have much more regulation than National Forest areas. It may seem daunting at first trying to plan a trip north thru Sequoia and Kings Canyon. But it is doable. My biggest hint when traveling thru the parks is to interact with the backcountry rangers. Ask if your camping plan for the next few days is correct, have your permit handy, have the poop rake visible. Offer to haul out any trash they might have, the rangers would much rather be proactive than writing citations.
A nice short trip is to cottonwood lakes. There are several lakes below Old Army Pass. The lakes have Golden Trout, but they are wily. The upper lakes are above the tree line, so secure your tent well. To connect with the PCT JMT, skirt the back of the stables heading toward Cottonwood Pass. Not long after going over Cottonwood pass you will join the PCT. Go right, and about a mile later is Chicken Spring Lake. Good water and grass. The next water hole is five or six miles. I have dry camped at the Siberian Pass Trail Junction. Rock Creek has stock camping south of the trail junction on Rock Creek. There is no grass in the campsite at the creek. The backcountry ranger is there. Check with him or her on grazing restrictions. The climb out of Rock Creek will get you puffing, soon you will arrive at Crabtree Meadow and the JMT Junction. If you are camping at Crabtree, be sure and check with the ranger on where to graze. From Crabtree Meadow to Sonora Pass you can spend a lifetime exploring some of the most spectacular high alpine terrain in the world. I have.
Some Grazing Tips: The JMT corridor has a lot of grazing restrictions for livestock. Sometimes exploring off the trail a quarter mile or so can alleviate that problem.
Example: Wallace, Wright, and Tyndall Creek offer many off trail options. Check with rangers at Crabtree or Tyndall Creek.
Another tip is setting yourself up for high pass summits. Your first major summit is Forester Pass. Camp at the base of Forester Pass and get on the trail early. Do not start any passes in the middle of the day. Sometimes the passes have narrow trails and you want to get up and over before the hikers can crowd you.
Onion Valley- This is another popular east side entrance to Kings Canyon Park and the JMT. It is 6.6 miles from the trailhead to the JMT, but there are a lot of grazing restrictions west of Kearsage Pass. I suggest a first day short hike, stopping at one of the lakes on the east side of the Kings Canyon Park boundary. Grass may be sparse, so it is a good idea to bring 4 or 5 pounds of pellets per llama for dinner and breakfast. If going north, start early. Turn north at the JMT and go to the base of Glen Pass. The next day will be hard. Summit Glen Pass early, pass through Rae Lakes (no stopping with stock), and you must go to the stock camp just north of Baxter Drift Fence.
South Lake- The Bishop Pass Trail starts at South Lake and Junctions with the JMT twelve miles in. South Lake is 22 miles west of Bishop. It is a good access road and Bishop offers many services. It can be crowded in summer. I always enjoy stopping at Looney Bean on 395. Parking at the trailhead can be crowded. You may have to park back down on the road. Dusy Basin is a good goal on the first day, but it is a steep hike up to 12,000’ Bishop Pass. If starting late, or pooping out early, consider stopping at one of the lakes below Bishop Pass. You will need some pellets for your llamas. Stopping early, or making it to Dusy Basin, there is no grazing in Dusy Basin or surrounding areas. If you are exiting at South Lake from Le Conte Canyon, it is a whole lot of uphill. I recommend stopping at Dusy Basin.
North Lake Trailhead is close to South Lake. It basically goes the same direction as the Bishop Pass Trail, and ties into the JMT about 26 miles north of Paiute Canyon Trail. It makes a good loop trip.
Florence Lake- This trailhead is a really nice entry to the JMT at Muir Ranch. Unfortunately the long long road in is a lot of potholes connected to a little bit of asphalt. There is a good llama camping spot uphill from the pack station on the road to Jackass Meadow. It is on the right just past the bathroom. There are bear boxes, easy turnarounds, and lots of flat space. There is no water, grass or garbage pickup. It is maybe a ½ mile walk to the trailhead. From there you follow the lake trail to the end of Florence Lake. Cross the bridge and head towards Muir Ranch about four miles east. If you are starting late, or pooping out early, you can veer off the trail just past Alder Creek over towards the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. A mile and a half or so further is Shooting Star Meadow with a good stock camp. The camp is right next to the San Joaquin River, but a little hard to find. About a half mile past Muir Ranch, exit the trail towards the river. There is no sign post or obvious pathway. The first time I was there I left my friend Jack and the llamas near the trail and scouted the meadow. Eventually I found a pathway in the middle of the meadow paralleling the main trail going south. The path leads down to the camp. Picket the llamas in the meadow and then move them into camp in the evening.
On other trips, if utilizing Muir Ranch for resupply, do not walk your llamas thru the gate and into the ranch, they have horses, and the llamas could cause a ruckus. Less than a hundred yards uphill from the gate on the left is a small flat area. Tie the llamas up and walk down to pick up your food buckets. Bring them up to the llamas, refill your bear canisters, and bring the buckets back down with your sorted garbage. Also, everyone sends too much stuff in their resupply and there is an abundance of free extra food. People have a tendency to send large (32 oz.) containers of olive oil, peanut butter, and honey that they do not wish to carry.
From Muir Ranch you can enter the JMT and go south to the High Sierra or north to Mammoth.
Mammoth Lakes- This popular winter ski resort and summer camping area has four wilderness entry points:
Duck Lake- This trailhead can get crowded on weekends with day hikers. Parking is limited. It is one of the easiest to get a permit. Leaving the trailhead it is about 4 miles and a 1700’climb to Duck Pass. You can continue down the main trailhead toward the outlet. There is no camping along the lake nor at its outlet. At the pass you can take a left, go down the hill and camp up a sloped area. This is the option I take because at 10,700’ on the first day I have hit the wall. From the fork on Duck pass to the JMT, it is 1.7 miles, south to Purple Lake or north toward Devils Post Pile.
Red Cones-This is the best trailhead in Mammoth to enter the JMT with llamas. It is also the hardest to get a permit. The trailhead starts at Horseshoe Lake. You park just uphill from the lake and the lower parking lot. You have a short ¾ mile hike up to Mcleod Lake. Soon you start a long downhill, with big trees and lots of shade. There will be multiple trail junctions to Reds Meadow or Upper Crater Meadow. If you are heading south, go towards Upper Crater Meadow. There is good grass, camping and usually water.
Tuolumne Meadow-
This is one of my favorite trailheads. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to
get a permit. There are three directions you may go west towards Cathedral Pass
and Sunrise Camp. I do not
recommend this direction, there are too many bears that have no fear of humans
or llamas plus you cannot exit or enter Yosemite Valley with llamas. South into
Lyell Canyon toward Donohue pass, the park service prohibits camping from the
permit station to the Vogelsang Trail turnoff. They also request that llamas
not be on this section of the trail before 9am so as not to upset the horses.
Lyell canyon is beautiful and a good first day warm up before ascending 11k
Donohue Pass. Finally there is north,
I have hiked into this northern section and it is wonderful. There is no
camping allowed for 4 miles from the permit office north. McGee Lakes is about
6 miles I but not good for stock. Glen Aulin is about 6 miles, but closed to
stock until early September. Plus, too many bears. You need to continue toward
Cold Canyon and look for camping off the side of the trail. There are some
fragile meadows in this area, try and camp on harder surfaces. From here on
there will be about 70 miles of spectacular hiking. Do not rush this section.
The
best parking for Tuolumne Meadows is in the parking lot at the stables. It is
about a mile up a gravel road from the wilderness office. Near the wilderness
office is a stock camp, reservations only- remember, where camping is allowed
only in permitted campgrounds. No camping in the stable parking lot,
fortunately going with the north or south the first day is easy. Another hint,
there is no stock access from Hetch Hetchy. On the narrow access road from Highway
120, there are no trailers allowed. Llamas in vans or stock trucks are ok.
Green Creek- This is a convenient east side trailhead at 8000’, six miles south of Bridgeport on 395 turn west on Green Creek Road go 8 miles to the trailhead. It is easy to obtain a permit at the ranger station south of Bridgeport. If accessing Yosemite, make sure you obtain stock regulations for the area you are visiting. No camping with stock is allowed at trailhead, but there are many unimproved campsites 1-1.5 miles before the trailhead. It is 8.2 miles to Virginia canyon and N.E. Yosemite. If starting late in the day, West, Green and East lakes have camping but poor feed. Bring Pellets for the first night of camping.
Twin Lakes- This trailhead is southwest of Bridgeport about 15 miles from Bridgeport on Twin Lakes Road. Enter Mono Village Resort and veer to the left at the bait shop to the parking lot. To the right of the bait shop is an entry booth to the trailer campground. Walk over and register for pay parking. Follow the road through the campground with Robinson creek on your left. Eventually you come to a cable across the road, go around, and the trailhead is about 1/3 mile ahead. If starting late I suggest you camp to the left of trail about 2 miles in. There is good grass for the Llamas, water, however, no fires are allowed. There is no good camping for 8-9 miles from the trailhead. There is no camping at Barney Lake. Great way to access N.E. Yosemite!
Leavitt Meadow– This is a nice, lesser used trailhead in the Hoover Wilderness. There are three vehicle areas all close by on Highway 108. Leavitt Meadow campground is a small car camping campground but no stock is allowed overnight. The trailhead starts at the bridge at the east end of the campground. You may short term park ($7.00) to load or unload llamas. About 200’ west is the backpacker parking lot. Do not enter with a truck or trailer. If it’s busy there won’t be room to turn around (Yuck). There is a bathroom, sometimes water, garbage and self -registration wilderness permits (Yipee). About another 200’ west on highway 108 from the parking lot, is an unmarked parking area where you will leave your truck and trailer. You may camp there, but there are no improvements.
Starting at the bridge, it is about 4 miles to Roosevelt and Lane lakes. There is no camping at Roosevelt Lake. One good llama campsite is at the far end of Lane Lake. At the outlet crossing of Lane lake (usually dry) go south, then veer up a short hill to campsite- do not camp here. Tie up the llamas then continue around to the south side of the lake, crossing a meadow to a large established campsite. It is easier to scout the way through downed trees and obstacles. There is no good camping along the trail until lower Paiute meadow. Upper Paiute meadow is very nice. I Do not recommend Fremont lake, it has poor grass and gets very busy. This trail is a good access to the PCT and Northern Yosemite.
Leavitt Lake- This is on the western boundary of the Hoover Wilderness. Leavitt lake road starts at highway 108 about 4 miles east of Sonora Pass. The road is unsigned and branches off highway 108 in a hairpin turn. It is about three miles to Leavitt Lake but I suggest parking at highway 108 as the road is very rough and I will not haul a trailer up it. I usually camp at the outlet the first night as there is no good stock camping until Walker Meadows. It is about two miles from Leavitt Lake to the junction with the PCT. Be prepared for gorgeous views and blustery wind. If going south toward Tuolumne Meadow, there are numerous lakes and good stock camps.
Kennedy Meadow North-This trailhead starts at the well-developed Kennedy meadows resort, about ½ mile from Highway 108. There will be a large parking lot up the hill on the left, with lots of parking, and bathrooms and water. Continue walking toward the resort and the trail starts just past the store and stables. As a courtesy have someone walk over to the horse packing area, no llamas in tow, and ask if they have a horse train leaving soon. This is the Huckleberry trail which heads towards Yosemite. Kennedy Lake is 6.5 miles and one of my favorite 2-4 day trips. Do not plan on camping at Kennedy Lake as the camping is poor and the last 3/8 of a mile is very wet. There is plenty of camping in the two meadows. Relief Reservoir has sparse grass so you must bring pellets for the first night. There are decent places to camp between Saucer Meadow and Sheep Camp, but limited grass. Be sure to keep your llamas well off the trail so as not to spook the horses. From Mosquito Pass on there is good feed and numerous lakes to fish and explore. You can easily spend 10 days exploring the southern emigrant, cross over to Dorothy Lake in Yosemite (No Dogs) to find Cisco Lake and Walker Meadows and come back up to Big Sami and High Emigrant Lake.
Gianelli Cabin (Burst Rock)- This is a western trailhead into the Emigrant Wilderness. It can be busy on summer weekends. Chewing Gum Lake is about 4 miles in, but very busy. Next is Y Meadow Lake at 6 plus miles, which can also be very busy. I like to make it to Toe Jam Lake about 9 miles in. From there on, are several lakes. Wire Lake, Long Lake, Buck Lake, and Emigrant Lake all have good camping and sometimes fishing.
Crabtree Trailhead is a popular spot for hikers and horse people. Paiute Meadow at six miles in is my favorite first night spot. About two hundred yards before the creek crossing there is a good camp spot on the left. The meadow has abundant grass and a small creek. You may have to walk down to the creek crossing to get water, but the good camp is worth it. Eventually you can intersect the Huckleberry Trail in two places.
Shingle Spring- This entry point is in the southwest portion of the Emigrant Wilderness. You enter through the town of Groveland and then head toward Cherry Lake. You will be following Kibbie Ridge, and at 1.3 miles you will junction with the trail to Kibbie Lake. No stock is allowed at Kibbie Lake. It is a popular weekend backpacker destination. Continuing on Kibbie Ridge there are no good camp sites until Sachse Spring at about 8 ½ miles. A few miles ahead, just before Styx Pass, are some nice open camping spots, but finding water is sometimes difficult. Descending Styx Pass you will cross Cherry Creek, and continue onto a hard to follow trail through ferns. Before crossing the creek, observe some of the old trees on the upstream side. The high water marks show signs of significant flooding. There is only one campsite on the eastern side of the meadow, near the next water crossing. This water crossing can still be deep even after the snow melt. Once across, it is a good idea to scout ahead to find the correct trail. There is a false trail that rises away from Cherry Creek and eventually becomes impassable to stock. About 5 ½ miles past the only good camp site at Lord Meadow, is Anderson camp. Not all maps will have it marked, but it sits at the beginning of Huckleberry Outlet. There is good fishing, and the bugs are not as bad as along the trail. You cannot see Anderson Camp from the trail, there is no signpost, or discernible pathway. It is best to send someone to scout. There is also camping at the eastern end of Huckleberry, but the bugs are usually worse. From here you have access to several lesser visited lakes, and the further east you go the terrain becomes more open, and the vistas more spectacular.
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